Tuesday, July 21, 2009

TECHNIQUE TUESDAY



(this ones for a friend of mine who doesn't "get" ATC's LOL lov ya darl!)
Last week before I got a shocking case of the flu I was playing with Tim Holtz Alcohol inks, glass paint, Maya road misters and embossing. I discovered that if I use overhead transparency film I can emboss over my inks and paint. This blog entry feels quite self indulgent...because it really was so much fun creating some examples for you to look at.
This ATC I experimented with taking colour away before I embossed the same stamp on the other side. Right or wrong (?LOL) I applied stazon stamp cleaner to my stamp then left it sit for five minutes on the inked side of the transparency. Then very lightly, blotted with a paper towel. The stamp actually had an interesting rainbow inked residue on it which I used on another atc. The only problem was I couldn't get the embossed image lined back up because (duh) I used a rubber stamp. You would get a better effect from a clear stamp! LOL :)

HOW TO CREATE YOUR OWN EMBOSSED OVERLAY
Sometimes I see a stamp and think that would be awesome as an overlay. Well I came up with a way to manage that! I bought overhead transparency sheets from stationary store.


I stamped the stamp I wanted straight onto the overhead with stazon watermark stamp pad ( beware its can be a slippery job!) and embossed as normal with embossing powder.







TIP: with any embossing keep a clean small paint brush handy if you smudge your watermark ink and the powder goes where you don't want it, you can easily brush the powder away.



I did this on this project as some of the lines picked up extra thickness from uneven pressure on the stamp. So I thinned out the lines with a 000 paint brush. (if only your on lines and thickness could be so easily erased! RAOTFL!!! )



I think the overhead transparency handled the heat of the heat gun because of the thicker thickness (try saying that quickly five times! LOL) . I don't know that I would try it on a commercially bought one, for the melting warping factor.


I moved the heat gun around constantly, never letting one spot get to hot (and maybe melt! ) but I think the trick was to stick the overhead down first to stop it moving or warping.



I stuck mine to a cutting mat then after I embossed it I gently bent the mat to straighten everything as it cooled off!(no guarantee's are attached to this tip but it is something I'll be doing again! )





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